CFIC Orléans 2024

Assess the antioxidant power of a cosmetic formula

Description

Oxidation of skin components such as lipids, proteins, enzymes is one of the causes of skin aging. This test measures the ability of a cosmetic formula to protect unsaturated lipids, known to be very sensitive to oxidation, from peroxidation by a spectrofluorometric method. A reagent becoming fluorescent when lipoperoxides are formed is incorporated into the cosmetic formula. A source of unsaturated lipids is then added to the preparation. The cosmetic formula containing the reagent and unsaturated lipids is measured using a spectrofluorometer before and after irradiation with a solar simulator. Irradiation potentiate oxidation and allows to verify the photostability of antioxidant active ingredients. This method is only applicable to formulas that do not contain UV filters.

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